Building new garage and want to recess the 4 post lift to eliminate the ramps

[zach05855]

I am building a new garage and though that I would recess the 4 post lift into the floor to eliminate the approach ramps. Has anyone done this and did it work out all right? Since there are a ton of very smart folks on the forum, I though I would like to hear any pros or cons about this idea. If anyone has already done this would you share some photos.

thanks


Zach

 

[Sinovac]

I wouldn't do it. You lose the ability to store a car underneath and you create a tripping hazard around the lift.

 

[Superfly]

I wouldn't do it. You lose the ability to store a car underneath and you create a tripping hazard around the lift.

^^^ this.

 

[AJB]

For the items listed above I would not do it either....But...just make sure you order the optional ALUMINUM approach ramps (steel ones are very heavy) add a few pieces of nicely painted 2x10 to match your car (in case you need to 'shim' the approach angle ) to keep in the corner of the garage
also, most of the lifts come with a caster system that would allow you to move the whole lift assy if you needed to. If you had the lift recessed in the floor , it would negate this ability.
my 2c

andy AJB

 

[JWZ]

You may consider a Rotary Lift 2 post in ground, full-air/hydraulic lift.

 

[Xcentric]

Are you suggesting having the ramps flush with the floor?

You could do it I think. You could probably find a way to deal with the tripping hazard at the posts. I don't know about all brands, but BendPak has wiring going into the side of the ramp. You'd need a channel in the floor to deal with that.

The biggest issue is loss of height. You may have to go with a commercial lift.

I think it's a pretty cool idea. With enough money, anything is doable.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[PeteK]

If you're designing the garage, skip the 4-post and go with a 2-post. That way you don't have approach ramps and when you pick up the car you have full access to the underside and wheels/suspension. Just make sure that the 2-post you choose has arms that can reach under the car to the jacking points. Maybe someone else can give you specific recommendations (don't ask me--I have a 4-post and want to eventually replace it with a 2-post)

 

[Xcentric]

Actually, the biggest issue is how do you cover the holes in the floor when the lift is raised?

You could have some diamond plate doors that swing up and level with the floor.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[zach05855]

Are you suggesting having the ramps flush with the floor?

You could do it I think. You could probably find a way to deal with the tripping hazard at the posts. I don't know about all brands, but BendPak has wiring going into the side of the ramp. You'd need a channel in the floor to deal with that.

The biggest issue is loss of height. You may have to go with a commercial lift.

I think it's a pretty cool idea. With enough money, anything is doable.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Yes I would have the runways at floor level to eliminate the approach ramps entirely, the floor under the lift would also be lowered to not loose any lifting height.

 

[Xcentric]

Ah! So you don't care about losing a parking space under the raised lift.

A two post would be a huge PITA to get the lift points aligned.

A four post with two rolling jacks is ideal.

Hell, you could go old school and have a pit in the middle.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[zach05855]

Ah! So you don't care about losing a parking space under the raised lift.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I have plenty of parking spaces. The lift is in the shop area

 

[zach05855]

Ah! So you don't care about losing a parking space under the raised lift.

A two post would be a huge PITA to get the lift points aligned.

A four post with two rolling jacks is ideal.

Hell, you could go old school and have a pit in the middle.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Actually your very close to what I was going to do.

2 post lifts scare me!
was going to make a shallow pit as the ceiling height is limited to 8 feet. the 2 rolling jacks are a must

 

[Empty Pockets]

You lose the ability to store a car underneath...

Not really. One could make a wood-framed false 'floor' to fill the entire rectangular 'hole' in the concrete floor when the hoist is raised, OR just make two wooden "runways" to place in said hole to drive the "underneath" car over.

...and you create a tripping hazard around the lift.

...which could be solved the same way.


What is unclear to me here is what's prompting your desire to eliminate the ramps, Zach. Why do you need (or want) to eliminate them? Is there some kind of real SHORT space issue on the approach end of the hoist which demands there be no ramps?

Knowing what the issue is may help in formulating a solution.

 

[Sinovac]

You only gain about 6"-8" of headroom by recessing the lift. It's not worth it. With an 8' ceiling, you'll be working under the car primarily from a rolling shop chair. I did this for about a year before I built my shop. Think about the inability to roll the chair from under the car when you want to get out.

 

[Sinovac]

Not really. One could make a wood-framed false 'floor' to fill the entire rectangular 'hole' in the concrete floor when the hoist is raised, OR just make two wooden "runways" to place in said hole to drive the "underneath" car over.



...which could be solved the same way.


What is unclear to me here is what's prompting your desire to eliminate the ramps, Zach. Why do you need (or want) to eliminate them? Is there some kind of real SHORT space issue on the approach end of the hoist which demands there be no ramps?

Knowing what the issue is may help in formulating a solution.

I take it you've never used a lift to work on a car.

 

[zach05855]

Not really. One could make a wood-framed false 'floor' to fill the entire rectangular 'hole' in the concrete floor when the hoist is raised, OR just make two wooden "runways" to place in said hole to drive the "underneath" car over.



...which could be solved the same way.


What is unclear to me here is what's prompting your desire to eliminate the ramps, Zach. Why do you need (or want) to eliminate them? Is there some kind of real SHORT space issue on the approach end of the hoist which demands there be no ramps?

Knowing what the issue is may help in formulating a solution.

I want to eliminate the ramps to clear the space and ease the access to the lift. If I can recess the lift then I can move the lift to an angle leaving more space in the garage shop. If you look at the attached PDF you will see what I mean. There is still a post in the way that supports a hollow core concrete slab above.

 

[zach05855]

You only gain about 6"-8" of headroom by recessing the lift. It's not worth it. With an 8' ceiling, you'll be working under the car primarily from a rolling shop chair. I did this for about a year before I built my shop. Think about the inability to roll the chair from under the car when you want to get out.

Putting in a 3' pit also. I currently sit on a rolling chair now under my lift and I want to get rid of that.

 

[Vincent998]

What's the point?

Putting in a 3' pit also. I currently sit on a rolling chair now under my lift and I want to get rid of that.

I almost certainly don't understand the drawings and your explanation about why you want to do this. It seems like a great deal of trouble for not much payback. A four post drive on lift is the way to go for a GT, it's much easier to put the car up than it is with a two post. With most two post lifts you have to use ramps to get the car up high enough to get the arms under it and properly positioned. And, since you're building a new garage, just raise the ceiling high enough (at least 10 feet for an HD9, 11 feet is better).

 

[zach05855]

I almost certainly don't understand the drawings and your explanation about why you want to do this. It seems like a great deal of trouble for not much payback. A four post drive on lift is the way to go for a GT, it's much easier to put the car up than it is with a two post. With most two post lifts you have to use ramps to get the car up high enough to get the arms under it and properly positioned. And, since you're building a new garage, just raise the ceiling high enough (at least 10 feet for an HD9, 11 feet is better).

The garage is underground and has a concrete slab above. No 2 posts for me, 4 posts only

 

[Empty Pockets]

I want to eliminate the ramps to clear the space and ease the access to the lift. If I can recess the lift then I can move the lift to an angle leaving more space in the garage shop. If you look at the attached PDF you will see what I mean. There is still a post in the way that supports a hollow core concrete slab above.

I don't 'get' the pit/hoist's location relative to - and its distance from - the nearby doorway. But then, you know better than I 'what-needs-to-be-located-where' around the pit/hoist, what type of work will be going on around there, what will be going back and forth thru the doorway, and therefore why the offset angle and close proximity to the door are necessary. But, to me, just based on what I can see, it looks as though: (1) getting anything back and forth thru that door is going to be a mother bear with the hoist/pit installed as shown, and, (2) assuming any car driven onto the hoist will be approaching it from the center area of the shop (it can't be driven onto it thru the door!), I don't 'see' a need to sweat the use of ramps because:

Regarding the support beam to which you referred (which I'm assuming is the 'rectangle' I see a few feet off from the hoist runway), it appears that the 35* install angle could be reduced to 25* or so (?) thereby making it possible to get a 'straight shot' at the hoist with a car (from the center area of the shop floor)...which should make the ramp issue moot.

The solution can't be that simple, so, I assume I'm missing something. :facepalm: