I’ve read in the forum that the Motive bleeder is the best set up. Can anyone tell me which one specifically to order and if it comes with correct attachments?
Bleeding brakes and clutch
- Thread starter Jeff Romig
- Start date
Too tired to go back over to the garage now.
If no one has given you info by the morning, I'll check and send you some. I use it for brakes all the time. Sort of in the "where have you been all my (automotive) life" category.
If no one has given you info by the morning, I'll check and send you some. I use it for brakes all the time. Sort of in the "where have you been all my (automotive) life" category.
I assume you are talking '05-'06.
"Motive Products Power Bleeder" - That's all the box says. No ID on the cap either. You'll have to get them to spec it for you when you order. Their Customer Service seemed pretty competent.
Device is great. Works like a charm for one-person brake bleed.
Regarding clutch:
- Cap is different size. They couldn't spec it for sure. They thought it was the same as a European Ford product. Since I wasn't sure about pressure-bleeding the clutch, I passed.
- Didn't do the clutch for a while, and then did it the old fashioned way. Ford, Kendall and Rich Brooks all tell you- "DO NOT LET RESERVOIR RUN DRY!!!". Good advice. Guess what I did? Yes, I let the reservoir run dry. Thought I could go thru 2 cycles of bleeding before re-filling, but reservoir is so small that was a bad guess. Re-filling the system was a NIGHTMARE that defied the knowledge of everyone on the Forum, Ford, etc. If I or my wife pressed the clutch pedal once, we did it a thousand times - literally.
- Ultimate solution required -among other things - getting access to the middle clutch line bleed valve, located on the bulkhead between cockpit and engine bay. Only way to get at the bleeder valve that I could make work was to take out the speaker and then an access panel. It did seem, however that bleeding from that port was an essential ingredient to solving the problem. Normally, people are successful in just using the lower, accessible bleeder valve.
- Actually, in all my discussions trying to solve the problem, pressure application was not mentioned. I don't know if anyone uses a pressure bleed with the clutch.
- Brian Stormer identified a device that was critical to the solution of my problem, and would have prevented it in the first place. Harbor Freight has their Pittsburg brand part 92924, "Brake Fluid Bleeder With Auto-Refill Kit" , from which the auto-refill is the key. It's so simple it's silly. A plastic bottle with a shut-off valve and a series of adaptors. Put fluid in the bottle; close the valve; find the right adaptor to put in the reservoir; invert the bottle and place on the adaptor; open the valve, and, voila, the reservoir will not run dry! A lifesaver.
- Part of the solution to my problem was the application of hand-powered vacuum, rather than pressure. Again, I don't what experience people have had with using pressure to purge and fill the cylinder and line. In theory, it should work, but I can't attest to that.
- That's all I have, except to reiterate, DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY!
- Hope this may help.
"Motive Products Power Bleeder" - That's all the box says. No ID on the cap either. You'll have to get them to spec it for you when you order. Their Customer Service seemed pretty competent.
Device is great. Works like a charm for one-person brake bleed.
Regarding clutch:
- Cap is different size. They couldn't spec it for sure. They thought it was the same as a European Ford product. Since I wasn't sure about pressure-bleeding the clutch, I passed.
- Didn't do the clutch for a while, and then did it the old fashioned way. Ford, Kendall and Rich Brooks all tell you- "DO NOT LET RESERVOIR RUN DRY!!!". Good advice. Guess what I did? Yes, I let the reservoir run dry. Thought I could go thru 2 cycles of bleeding before re-filling, but reservoir is so small that was a bad guess. Re-filling the system was a NIGHTMARE that defied the knowledge of everyone on the Forum, Ford, etc. If I or my wife pressed the clutch pedal once, we did it a thousand times - literally.
- Ultimate solution required -among other things - getting access to the middle clutch line bleed valve, located on the bulkhead between cockpit and engine bay. Only way to get at the bleeder valve that I could make work was to take out the speaker and then an access panel. It did seem, however that bleeding from that port was an essential ingredient to solving the problem. Normally, people are successful in just using the lower, accessible bleeder valve.
- Actually, in all my discussions trying to solve the problem, pressure application was not mentioned. I don't know if anyone uses a pressure bleed with the clutch.
- Brian Stormer identified a device that was critical to the solution of my problem, and would have prevented it in the first place. Harbor Freight has their Pittsburg brand part 92924, "Brake Fluid Bleeder With Auto-Refill Kit" , from which the auto-refill is the key. It's so simple it's silly. A plastic bottle with a shut-off valve and a series of adaptors. Put fluid in the bottle; close the valve; find the right adaptor to put in the reservoir; invert the bottle and place on the adaptor; open the valve, and, voila, the reservoir will not run dry! A lifesaver.
- Part of the solution to my problem was the application of hand-powered vacuum, rather than pressure. Again, I don't what experience people have had with using pressure to purge and fill the cylinder and line. In theory, it should work, but I can't attest to that.
- That's all I have, except to reiterate, DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY!
- Hope this may help.
fjpikul
GT Owner
Some engineer you are cowboy. That's like doing pelvic surgery and saying "don't nick the bladder."
I went though this a couple years ago and found this was specifically the one needed:
Amazon.com: ARES 18000-42mm Master Cylinder Adapter - Use with Most European and Some Domestic Vehicles - Use with Brake Fluid Bleeders: Automotive
Amazon.com: ARES 18000-42mm Master Cylinder Adapter - Use with Most European and Some Domestic Vehicles - Use with Brake Fluid Bleeders: Automotive
The clutch is really easy to bleed the old fashioned way - but best to have 3 people. One at the bleed nipple at the bellhousing (access from top passenger side of vehicle), one in the car to pump operate the clutch and one person hovering over the reservoir keeping it filled. The person in the car should be barefoot or have socks. After pressing the pedal, you'll need to lift it with your toes between pumps.
DakotaGT
GT Owner
What would the symptoms be if you did end up with a tiny pocket of air, say, in that middle bleed valve area by the bulkhead (I’ve only bled from the front/rear areas)?
Biginch Blake
GT Owner
You are dead on. First time I changed mine I emptied my reservoir and turned a 20 minute job into an hour job
. My break pump assistant (wife) was not a happy camper.Clutch is the 42mm. Brakes are the 50mm and I believe the one that comes with the 0107 kit. Done alone, no problem.
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