I can't comment about the Reseller's Permit number in this situation as they weren't discussing it with me, probably someone in our office. Faxing over a copy of the Permit is all we need to deal with the sales tax, but the Accufab Dealer Program does require a little more effort (filling out the form) and a buy-in. This keeps our dealer's happy because we won't ever try to under sell them or be in competition with them. We only sell at the listed retail price.
Anyway, regarding the TB not returning to idle speed, etc., this is something that we have seen before and not just with the GT. I always ask the person reporting the problem if the TB returns completely with the key off and the engine not running. If it does, this is USUALLY a sign that the TPS voltage is off, typically too high, and the computer is holding the TB open too long. The TB (anyone's TB) is a mechanical device with only one moving part (the shaft and blade) and it only rotates 90-degrees, from full closed to full open. The only message that your engine computer gets as to where your right foot is (relative to the floor, LOL) is via the TPS (throttle position sensor). It is a one way message with no feedback. MOST of the idle issue we have ever seen have been the result of the TPS voltage being too high and the computer "thinking" that you still have your foot on the throttle, rather than being at idle. Another sensor on the car is called the "speed sensor" which actually compares the speed vs. the throttle position. The computer is constantly comparing these two inputs. As the computer is a "learning computer", it will eventually (maybe after 200 miles of driving) figure out that it needs to bring the idles back quicker and re-adjust it's own pre-programmed protocol. This learning process can be hastened by disconnecting the battery ground for a while and re-connecting it, therby causing the computer to "start from scratch" so to speak. The TPS is nothing more than a rheostat, like the volume knob on an old radio. When the voltage is set correctly (key on, engine not running) at between .98 to 1.0 volts, it will go up to about 5.0 volts at full throttle, and the engine computer will be very happy.
The TB in question will be checked by us and if there is a problem, we will fix it or replace it. Out stuff is pretty much guaranteed for life against defects.
Sorry about the long post.
By the way, I guess we need to get some photos to the site soon regarding our "project car" here at Accufab. We have removed the supercharger, had a new intake manifold fabricated in it's place, and have installed a couple of turbochargers. It's not quite finished yet but it looks to be a doozy. One of the neat things about a turbo car is that we won't need to use any mufflers and it will still be pretty quiet, maybe even quieter than stock.
One other thing I wanted to mention, particularly for the So Cal or regional GT owners, we (Accufab) are planning on sponsoring a "Ford GT Roundup" on October 21-22, in conjunction with the Fun Ford Weeked all-Ford drag race and car show series, at California Speedway in Fontana, CA. I will be giving you some other info as the summer moves on so please keep in touch.
George Klass
Anyway, regarding the TB not returning to idle speed, etc., this is something that we have seen before and not just with the GT. I always ask the person reporting the problem if the TB returns completely with the key off and the engine not running. If it does, this is USUALLY a sign that the TPS voltage is off, typically too high, and the computer is holding the TB open too long. The TB (anyone's TB) is a mechanical device with only one moving part (the shaft and blade) and it only rotates 90-degrees, from full closed to full open. The only message that your engine computer gets as to where your right foot is (relative to the floor, LOL) is via the TPS (throttle position sensor). It is a one way message with no feedback. MOST of the idle issue we have ever seen have been the result of the TPS voltage being too high and the computer "thinking" that you still have your foot on the throttle, rather than being at idle. Another sensor on the car is called the "speed sensor" which actually compares the speed vs. the throttle position. The computer is constantly comparing these two inputs. As the computer is a "learning computer", it will eventually (maybe after 200 miles of driving) figure out that it needs to bring the idles back quicker and re-adjust it's own pre-programmed protocol. This learning process can be hastened by disconnecting the battery ground for a while and re-connecting it, therby causing the computer to "start from scratch" so to speak. The TPS is nothing more than a rheostat, like the volume knob on an old radio. When the voltage is set correctly (key on, engine not running) at between .98 to 1.0 volts, it will go up to about 5.0 volts at full throttle, and the engine computer will be very happy.
The TB in question will be checked by us and if there is a problem, we will fix it or replace it. Out stuff is pretty much guaranteed for life against defects.
Sorry about the long post.
By the way, I guess we need to get some photos to the site soon regarding our "project car" here at Accufab. We have removed the supercharger, had a new intake manifold fabricated in it's place, and have installed a couple of turbochargers. It's not quite finished yet but it looks to be a doozy. One of the neat things about a turbo car is that we won't need to use any mufflers and it will still be pretty quiet, maybe even quieter than stock.
One other thing I wanted to mention, particularly for the So Cal or regional GT owners, we (Accufab) are planning on sponsoring a "Ford GT Roundup" on October 21-22, in conjunction with the Fun Ford Weeked all-Ford drag race and car show series, at California Speedway in Fontana, CA. I will be giving you some other info as the summer moves on so please keep in touch.
George Klass
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