05-06 Ford GT Transaxle Fluid Change Kit

[nota4re]

If you do you own car maintenance OR you want to insure that whoever does your car maintenance uses the correct OEM transaxle fluid, this kit is for you. It is 4 quarts of the OEM Ford GT Transaxle fluid. Cars with or without a transaxle cooler will typically drain out approximately 3.8-3.9 quarts of fluid. This kit will be sufficient to perform a fluid change which Ford specifies to occur once every 3-years.

http://www.cooltechllc.com/ford-gt-parts-accessories/103-ford-gt-transaxle-fluid.html

If you want to add the fluid easily to your transaxle... please look at our "Lube Mover" which we came up with for the specific purpose of re-filling Ford GT transaxles.

http://www.cooltechllc.com/wrangler-parts-accessories/70--cool-tech-llc-s-lube-mover.html

 

[FENZO]

Ordered.

I'm sure like the last time I changed it the fluid will flow out looking as good as new.

But.. an ounce of prevention keeps the doctor away.. and all that.. or something. :wink:biggrin

 

[GT Venum]

If you do you own car maintenance OR you want to insure that whoever does your car maintenance uses the correct OEM transaxle fluid, this kit is for you. It is 4 quarts of the OEM Ford GT Transaxle fluid. Cars with or without a transaxle cooler will typically drain out approximately 3.8-3.9 quarts of fluid. This kit will be sufficient to perform a fluid change which Ford specifies to occur once every 3-years.

How difficult is it to change? I do have a 4 post lift.

 

[nota4re]

You just need to remove the rear pan/diffuser and then all is readily accessible. There is a drain plug with attached ~2" screen on the drivers's side. We usually remove that first. There's another drain with a magnetic tip on the passenger side. It's good to remove that one too and you can inspect/clean the magnet. At the first change, every GT we've done has had a 1/2" diameter "fuzz ball" at the tip of the magnet. Don't be too concerned to see this. Subsequent changes are much better. Ford says every 3-years for a change. Frankly speaking, with low mileage and largely climate controlled parking spots, that can likely be extended. The fill plug is on the driver's side. Oh, and just to remind you that the transaxle is Italian, each plug has a different size hex - go figure.

 

[jammer]

You just need to remove the rear pan/diffuser and then all is readily accessible. There is a drain plug with attached ~2" screen on the drivers's side. We usually remove that first. There's another drain with a magnetic tip on the passenger side. It's good to remove that one too and you can inspect/clean the magnet. At the first change, every GT we've done has had a 1/2" diameter "fuzz ball" at the tip of the magnet. Don't be too concerned to see this. Subsequent changes are much better. Ford says every 3-years for a change. Frankly speaking, with low mileage and largely climate controlled parking spots, that can likely be extended. The fill plug is on the driver's side. Oh, and just to remind you that the transaxle is Italian, each plug has a different size hex - go figure.

What tool do you use to remove the large drain plug with the ~2" screen on the driver side? Doesn't look like a socket would fit as clearance between plug head and transaxle body is very small. Thank you.

 

[nota4re]

What tool do you use to remove the large drain plug with the ~2" screen on the driver side? Doesn't look like a socket would fit as clearance between plug head and transaxle body is very small. Thank you.

A socket works fine - just be careful.

 

[Art138]

Here is a pic of the screen which I removed to clean when I installed the cooltech trans cooler.

 

[jammer]

Here is a pic of the screen which I removed to clean when I installed the cooltech trans cooler.

What's the part number of the o-ring at the tip of the long screen plug? IIRC the WSM says to inspect and replace it if damaged. Haven't removed mine yet but would like to replace the o-ring ayway if I coud order the correct part.

Looks like all three plugs have copper crush washers?

 

[Art138]

What's the part number of the o-ring at the tip of the long screen plug? IIRC the WSM says to inspect and replace it if damaged. Haven't removed mine yet but would like to replace the o-ring ayway if I coud order the correct part.

Looks like all three plugs have copper crush washers?
[/QUOTE
I changed all three and ordered them from Sawgrass Ford near my house awhile ago. Recommend you change them. The large screen plug had a dribble of fluid at the bottom but stopped after I changed the copper o-ring. Service ordered them so don’t have the part numbers. They can look up the numbers for you however.

 

[PeteK]

You can reuse the copper "crush washers" several times, as long as you don't CRUSH them. Forget the torque spec, hand tighten to moderate one hand force with a 3/8" drive ratchet or wrench. If it weeps, turn it a little further. That's all it needs. I generally get a handful of reuses out of copper washers.

 

[GT@50]

You can reuse the copper "crush washers" several times, as long as you don't CRUSH them. Forget the torque spec, hand tighten to moderate one hand force with a 3/8" drive ratchet or wrench. If it weeps, turn it a little further. That's all it needs. I generally get a handful of reuses out of copper washers.

Everybody's "by hand" torque is different. Please torque the plug on the $30,000 trans. Flat sand the washer and reuse it if you don't have another, and it's not paper thin.

 

[PeteK]

Rob, yeah, everyone's feel is a little different, but it's just about impossible to over torque it with one hand on a 3/8" ratchet. Wanna take any bets on whether any GT tech uses a torque wrench for tightening the drain plugs? I'll bet no one does.

Just having fun with ya!

 

[GT@50]

Rob, yeah, everyone's feel is a little different, but it's just about impossible to over torque it with one hand on a 3/8" ratchet. Wanna take any bets on whether any GT tech uses a torque wrench for tightening the drain plugs? I'll bet no one does.

Just having fun with ya!

I do. I love specs. Put it there and it works, and I never second guess it. Add 2 extra pounds to the oil filter lid and see what happens. Probably nothing but make it harder to remove. 2 less pounds and it may come off. 16/18#s I can't remember, but 2# is about 12%. How much wiggle room is there? I don't want to find out and it's easy enough to do. On fasteners that come off and on a lot it's even more important so you don't wear out the threads. I do use my internal clicker on some stuff though.

 

[BSim27]

Before and after pics of the fuzz ball from a transaxle with 4400 miles.

 

[GT@50]

It's a stick so it'll make metal, especially on the first drain. Clean the filter too. Lots of new sharp edges getting deburred during shifting. Next change in 15 years it'll look better.

 

[Hydra GT]

Bringing this thread back to the top. Installed Kendall's transaxle cooler this past weekend. Ordered all three (3) new drain plugs for peace of mind. Torqued all the plugs as the manual says at 20Ft lbs. There is a little seepage on the large driver side drain plug (the one with the screen). I torqued it down to 20Ftlbs and then 25Ftlbs. I do not want to strip the threads in the aluminum transaxle case. The copper washer seems to have an indent to it inside the center portion. it is not perfectly flat.

So, do i tighten it any more, take plug back out and apply ultra blue sealant on the washer/transaxle face area, use teflon tape on the threads? Any suggestions?

 

[GT@50]

Bringing this thread back to the top. Installed Kendall's transaxle cooler this past weekend. Ordered all three (3) new drain plugs for peace of mind. Torqued all the plugs as the manual says at 20Ft lbs. There is a little seepage on the large driver side drain plug (the one with the screen). I torqued it down to 20Ftlbs and then 25Ftlbs. I do not want to strip the threads in the aluminum transaxle case. The copper washer seems to have an indent to it inside the center portion. it is not perfectly flat.

So, do i tighten it any more, take plug back out and apply ultra blue sealant on the washer/transaxle face area, use teflon tape on the threads? Any suggestions?

New washer, stock torque.

 

[zach05855]

You can always anneal the copper washers to bring them back for reuse.

 

[Hydra GT]

Thanks. It’s a brand new copper washer and drain plug. Factory dealer ordered.

 

[GT@50]

Thanks. It’s a brand new copper washer and drain plug. Factory dealer ordered.

Look for a scratch in sealing surface of plug and/or case. Make sure case threads aren't pulled up. If so, debur to below flush. Flat sand both sides of washer and reinstall with teflon paste, keeping paste off leading edge of plug. Make sure it's not running down from VSS O ring.