Speedometer Stuck


Joehand1

Tungsten GT Owner
Sep 20, 2007
602
Hattiesburg, MS, USA
After 17 years and keeping car on a tender I have had my first gauge failure, the speedometer is stuck at 20 mph, will go up as I go faster and not go down as I slow down, but drop back to 20 mph when I stop. Is this most likely a speed sensor issue or a total speedometer failure?
 

Joe Dozzo

Well-known member
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
May 22, 2006
788
Canon City, CO
Does your odometer still record miles correctly? If so, it's not the speed sensor. Been there, done that!
 

fjpikul

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Jan 4, 2006
11,770
Belleville, IL
GTGuy has a fix. Contact Rich.
 
  • Like
Reactions: white out

twobjshelbys

GT Owner
Jul 26, 2010
6,266
Las Vegas, NV
Did you replace the battery within 2 years???

Gauge failures are hard stops...
 

Tomcat

GT Owner
It sure sounds like a mechanical/movement sticking...like a dustball or dirt/corrosion, since it moves (accurately???) above 20 mph.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,327
Did you replace the battery within 2 years???
More misinformation...

A low battery will effect the Gauge Control Module and could cause the inability of one or more gauges to properly "check in" (aka, get assigned an address so the GCM can communicate with the gauge throughout that start session.) When this occurs, one or more gauges will remain lifeless throughout an entire run session since the GCM neve attempts to re-establish communication. Typically, if you turn off the car and then re-start, there's enough voltage to get the GCM to do its job properly and operation of the gauges is restored. If this symptom occasionally occurs with your GT, the most common cause is a battery that is under-performing and needs to be replaced. In our experience, typical good service life of the correct Group 24 Optima battery is at least 5 years when it is sitting on a tender.

The problem described above is independent of an actual gauge failure. When a gauge failure occurs, it sometimes starts out as a "sticky" needle that gets progressively worse and then it eventually fails.

If you experience an inoperative gauge, try turning off the car and re-starting. If the gauge starts to work again, you should think about replacing your battery. If after several start cycles the SAME gauge continues to be inoperative, then it is most likely the gauge that has failed. You should NEVER purchase the smaller gauges through Ford as you will just receive another "Version 1" gauge that is prone to failure. Instead, these gauges should be purchased from AutoMeter directly. To the best of my knowledge, a "Version 2" gauge has never failed. As for replacing the Speedo or Tach, the only "new" choice is directly from Ford. Some of you know that we used to offer a repair service for these gauges but the issue was that the (well known) vendor providing the internal parts was way too unreliable/unresponsive/disinterested when it came to supporting their parts so we stopped this service. There's no joy for anyone when the gauge panel needs to be removed multiple times to repair failed parts.

Note: The circular-shaped PLASTIC piece that serves as the hood for the gauge cluster (and which can be easily scratched when removing the gauge panel) now lists for more than $3200. I think it is the most $/lb part that I am aware of on the GT.
 

Joe Dozzo

Well-known member
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
May 22, 2006
788
Canon City, CO
I have a version 2 vacuum / boost gauge that failed...

 

2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
I have a version 2 vacuum / boost gauge that failed...


Version 2 from Autometer?
 

GT@50

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Dec 14, 2019
983
Issaquah
I have a version 2 vacuum / boost gauge that failed...

Are you putting 30#s to it?
 

PeteK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 18, 2014
2,535
Kalama, Free part of WA State
So the plastic binnacle around the gauge panel is $3200??? That's absurd, and a good example of a part that can be 3D printed for a fraction of that price.
 

Joe Dozzo

Well-known member
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
May 22, 2006
788
Canon City, CO
Yes, definitely a Version 2 and no, no way I'm putting out 30lbs of boost from a pulley / tune car. The vacuum / boost gauge behavior is completely chaotic and never reads the same range from run to run to run. It's very annoying but not enough to pull the instrument cluster again.

And no, I do not believe the gauge... Car runs - as always - stellar!
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,327
Because of its "hoop" shape, I think it would be an absolute bitch to 3D print....
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,327
The vacuum / boost gauge behavior is completely chaotic and never reads the same range from run to run to run.
Is the needle acting "sticky"? Does it behave "normally" under vacuum conditions and act up once under boost or is it just erratic all the time?
 

Joe Dozzo

Well-known member
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
May 22, 2006
788
Canon City, CO
It behaves "normally" in that once I start the car, the needle moves smoothly between two points. Those two points, however, change every time I start the car.

And apologies - I didn't mean to hijack the original purpose of the thread.
 
Last edited:

Joehand1

Tungsten GT Owner
Sep 20, 2007
602
Hattiesburg, MS, USA
It sure sounds like a mechanical/movement sticking...like a dustball or dirt/corrosion, since it moves (accurately???) above 20 mph.
Yes it records correctly above 20 mph but sticks at the highest mph I go until I stop then it drops back to 20 and stays there until I go above 20 again. I’ve been on a tender with new battery in past 3 years, no other gauge is malfunctioning, seems mechanical to me