Dead battery?

[fjpikul]

Are you using the charger that originally came with the car? Or do you have the upgraded charger Ford part number KG7Y-19K5 14-AA. The '19s came standard with it. It puts out I think 7 amps and can recover a sleeping battery. Cost is about $400.

My car got stuck in AZ for two weeks with no charger and started without trouble.

 

[Pro_GT_driver]

I still have the "weak" original 2018 charger. But my battery has not yet been in safe mode and is recharging when the charger is connected. I think I will buy the new one with the new battery, just in case.

 

[italianjoe]

I still have the "weak" original 2018 charger. But my battery has not yet been in safe mode and is recharging when the charger is connected. I think I will buy the new one with the new battery, just in case.

I still have the "weak" original 2018 charger. But my battery has not yet been in safe mode and is recharging when the charger is connected. I think I will buy the new one with the new battery, just in case.

Hello Pro_GT_driver.
When you say "weak" are you talking about slow cranking the engine over ? Or is the battery dead ? Like Spartan stated I had his car in for service and found a module would not go to sleep and drew to many amps and caused the battery to fall below 10.5 volts caused his battery to go into "sleep mode" the best thing to do in my opinion before replacing anything is check the battery condition and check for parasitic draws and make sure that after 30 minutes that you only have 30ma draw on the system. Parts can be costly and a good diagnosis can save you time and money. I would rather spend I little extra time to make sure we find the issues before I replace good parts.

Joe

 

[Pro_GT_driver]

Happy new year to you guys.
I fully agree with Joe (thanks for your help) not to replace anything if not defective.

I did some observations during the last days:
1) Production date of the battery is August 2016 => it has already more than 5years.
My car was delivered in Mai 2018.

2) Voltage drop
- I measured 0,5V drop in 30seconds after pressing door unlock key, charger not connected. I assume during these 30sec the draw will not be that high as car unlocks the doors, switched headlights on and energises the display inside the car
- when doors are locked (no charger connected), the voltage drops ~0,5V in around 1 day (30mA draw as mentioned by Joe I assume)
- one start of the car is still possible, the voltage drops from fully charged 13,6V to 10,6V in this case

I didn't find a possibilty to open a wire from the battery to measure the current as proposed. I do not have a current clamp which would allow this.

This leads me to the conclusion that my battery needs replacement as it doesn't keep the charge. As a final check I will connect a healthy battery in parallel and see what happens with the voltage drop.
I noted that accessibility to the front fixation screws of the battery holder is "more than terrible" as far as I can see, so my dealer will get the job.

Hope this helps other members to evaluate their coming battery issues a little bit, sooner or later it will happen.