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Actually i read about that picture a couple weeks ago. They were driving down a toll road in Main like that, caused a few accidents and got arrested.

All is well, Changed out the pressure transducer and problem solved. Thanks for all the ideas.

I change it as a preventative measure. It's in perfect condition. Changing the oil pump belt is no big deal. Really it's just basic mechanics. It's not the belt !!!

Im working on the car now, give me a while to finish and i will report the results.

It is my opinion, after reading previous post about this on the Forum,{ Thanks to the search option} that the fluxuating oil pressure readings may be the precurser to a failing transducer. As for the priming after storage, it dosen't hurt thats for sure.

Thanks Clinton, I just recieved my U.P.S shipment from Fast parts Network, New oil filters and a new transducer. I will try a couple more times to prime it as you suggest and i have already looked at the oil pump belt. Im just perplexed as to why it has always primed up right away in the past...

As part of my winter storage preporation I always change the oil and filter in my cars that remain stored untill the weather permits. This time something happened. Before jumping to conclusions consider what i have done so far. #1 all three drain plugs were removed and left to drain over night...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAG39jKi0lI

I am forced to sell my Nebraska season tickets, The miss's dosent like the people sitting next to me. Make Offer.

Sorry, You will need to jack it up, remove the wheel, and then proceed with removing the splash shield to reach the problem.

If your going to take it in for service and you dont think you have enough fuel to make it, you can actually open the front hood, remove your trunk liner, then you will see the rubber hose that connects the fuel filler neck to the gas tank. You can remove the hose and with the aid of a funnel...

Once you remove the splash shield you will be able to see the cable that is attached to the latch, You either have a brokenn cable or the latch itself has broken. It's most likely just the cable. The part number for the cable is 40181

Sorry, my original post was confusing. On my car i had the same thing happen, I went in through the fender well. Perhaps someone else has a better way,

A few moments later.

Besides being to old here is one reason I dont race antiques anymore. Clincher rims require a lot of air pressure just to keep the tire on the rim. I was running around 80 pounds sometimes but you just cant get them to stick at that pressure so this is what happened on the front straight away...

Believe it or not i actually raced that bike for three years after the restoration at a vintage dirt track event that takes place once a year in Iowa. The rules of the pre 1930 class are No brakes and no clutch and the bike has to be period correct right down to the clincher rim tires. I was...

Much like the Ford GT, it requires your full attention when it's limits are pushed. Cool choice Mark. The Technology certainly has changed since this one was raced. I restored this one back in 1996

Found this today inside the rear facia just below the tail light.

This post reminds me of when my motor was apart, i know how you feel. Wish i was closer so i could come over and see it during the process. Best of luck on your quest Mark, I cant wait to see the results.