oil change time

Guy,

I haven't done mine yet but understand the following are the procedures, hope this helps:

Please be careful with the "o" ring on the cap. I understand it is only available when you purchase the cap & filter assembly.

Filter:
4G7Z-6731-AC or Motorcraft(FL2024)

Oil: Full synthetic
XO-5W50-QGT or WSS-M2C931-A spec oil

This should also be in your Owner's manual.

******************



Ford GT Oil Change Procedure

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Refer to section 100-02. Open the engine cover.
2. Remove the oil filter cap (6A832) from the oil filter adaptor. The used oil in the oil filter housing will automatically drain into the engine when the cap is loosened. The sealing o-ring will remain with the cap.
3. Remove the oil filter element from the housing and discard the element.
4. Install a new oil filter element and replace the cap. Ensure that the sealing o-ring is in place. Tighten the oil filter cap to 25Nm (18 lb-ft).
5. Raise the vehicle.
6. Remove the 21 bolts retaining the rear engine underbody panel (63106B08) and remove the panel. (illustration A0094313)
7. Remove the 19 bolts retaining the front engine underbody panel (115A74) and remove the panel. (illustration A0094314)
8. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil reservoir and drain the oil reservoir. (illustration A0089407)
9. Remove the two engine oil sump / oil pan drain plugs and drain any residual oil from the engine. (illustration A0000058, with modification to point arrows to the drain plugs) .
10. Reinstall the engine oil pan / oil sump drain plugs. Tighten the plugs to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
11. Reinstall the oil reservoir drain plug and tighten to 25Nm (18 lb-ft). (illustration A0089407)
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Refill the oil reservoir with 9.5 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic oil (XO 5W-50 QGT) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-A..
14. Start the engine check for oil leaks.
15. Raise the vehicle.
16. Reinstall the front engine underbody panel and the 19 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (illustration A0094314)
17. Reinstall the rear engine underbody panel and the 21 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (illustration A0089407)
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Check the oil sump level after running the engine. The level must be checked with 1 minute of shutting off the engine.
20. If the oil level is between the MIN-MAX marks on the dipstick, the oil level acceptable.
21. If the oil level in the sump is below the MIN mark, add oil in small amounts to raise the sump level to within the MIN-MAX range. Do not overfill the reservoir past the MAX mark on the dipstick.

Thanks for writing it up.
I like changing the oil on my cars since I put in a drive-on lift several years ago.
This is in the owner's manual (I will be getting my car delivered in 10 days)?
I purchased a service manual which is usually required for this kind of info.

I will admit I never removed so many bolts to change oil!

When I get a chance I will post pictures. Be extremely careful of stripping the screw heads, its real easy to do.

What was not mentioned is that you will probably have to drive the GT onto planks to raise it sufficiently for the lift arms to fit under. Of course if you use a drive on you don't have to worry about this step.

Then get under the car and locate where the lift pads will be and remove those screws first. If you don't the two rear most under belly panels cannot be removed and you will have to lower the car to remove those screws hidden by the pads adding greatly to the time involved.

Also use the filter box to form into a funnel; when you drain the oil so it doesn't get on the frame.

An oil change can easily run 2 - 2 1/2 hours, especially the first time you do it.

Dave

Sorry, only the oil and filter info should be in the manual. The procedures were passed on by a friend at Ford.

barondw said:

When I get a chance I will post pictures. Be extremely careful of stripping the screw heads, its real easy to do.

What was not mentioned is that you will probably have to drive the GT onto planks to raise it sufficiently for the lift arms to fit under. Of course if you use a drive on you don't have to worry about this step.

Then get under the car and locate where the lift pads will be and remove those screws first. If you don't the two rear most under belly panels cannot be removed and you will have to lower the car to remove those screws hidden by the pads adding greatly to the time involved.

Also use the filter box to form into a funnel; when you drain the oil so it doesn't get on the frame.

An oil change can easily run 2 - 2 1/2 hours, especially the first time you do it.

Dave

Click to expand...

Good tips.

guywwagner

Castrol makes a "5w50" oil; I use it in my 600 RWHP KB 03 Cobra with "NO PROBLEMS".

AMB

In re-reading Amer Spd's excellent post I noticed two items that I would change:

After a bunch of prodding the garage I used was able to get his local Ford dealer to drill down into the GT parts listing and find the O ring by itself and the filter by itself. The O ring is also provided when you purchase a new oil filter cover but this is a very expensive part and not necessary to change at every oil interval.

I've changed the oil filter cover once and all other times just the filter and O ring.

No I don't have the individual part numbers but if I got them some one else can do the same. Get friendly with the parts guy at your Ford dealership.

Dave

i just rec'd my 2005 shop manual. I can not find the oil change procedures any where in here. Has anyone found this in the shop manual?

I don't believe it's in the 05 manual. I posted the info I received from my friends at Ford and "barondw" posted some great pic of when he had his changed.

Have some time set aside...

Today was the big day. First oil change. Spoke with local selling dealer. They were more than happy to schedule the appointment & do the job. Only problem. They do not have the proper equipment to lift the car. The service tech & i decided the best bet would be "do it yourself". Ok i will take on the challange.

Now my big question....What happens when something major goes wrong? Guess i will be looking for a ford dealer with a 4 post lift. Hopefully it is local.

Frank,

I heard the oil filter now comes with the o-ring for the cap. Please let me know if it's true. Don't forget to take along extension ramps to get it on the 4 post.

Oil Change Method

I read the directions and it appears that the filter is changed from "above" and the oil and residuals in the scavenge pan are removed from below after the laborious removal of the belly pans. Since we are talking about a new car, why not simply suck the oil out of the oil tank ????????? (like everyone did/does on a 300SL with similar pans and you do on a Ghibli to avoid oil to exhaust contact or on boats ) The residuals in the scavenge will be minimal and will mix with the new oil . If this minimal amount bothers you, the quantity can easily be measured based on the amount removed from the tank.

The Shop Manual calls for 62 lb-in (7 Nm).

FrankBarba said:

Today was the big day. First oil change. Spoke with local selling dealer. They were more than happy to schedule the appointment & do the job. Only problem. They do not have the proper equipment to lift the car. The service tech & i decided the best bet would be "do it yourself". Ok i will take on the challange.

Now my big question....What happens when something major goes wrong? Guess i will be looking for a ford dealer with a 4 post lift. Hopefully it is local.

Click to expand...

Frank

Do a serach there are at least two detailed write-ups on oils changes and the "o" ring and filters.

Dave

RACER X JUST DID HIS, GUESS WHAT AND HOLD ON TO YOUR GREASE GUN. They just backed the car up onto 2 ramps from kmart, the heavy duty ones. it clears all and no fuss, the angle was just right, both pans were removed. NICE TIP RACER X. I was in the camp of sucking it out but will try the ramps first. Once again without names my local dealer who still has his car on the floor for 250,000 at least admitted there equiptment couldnt handle the car either. gtjoey 1314 and loving it :thumbsup

I don't understand why a dealership's lift won't work. Sometimes you have to back the car onto the lift.

Dave

The dealers 2 post lift will work if they follow the bulletins from Ford on the proper procedure. My dealer had to custom build some wooden blocks to raise the car to clear his lift. He was more than happy to do this and now he's ready to work on any GT.

As for doing it yourself, for the time and money involved,I will gladly let them change my oil every time because if someone is going to mess up my pans, I want it to be them. I can only imagine how expensive they are. And how often are you going to need your oil changed anyway?

Oil Change almost complete. Now for a few questions?

1. The rubber O- ring seal? I believe that it is placed at the top of the Oil Filter housing screw? Top of of threads?

2. In my oil filter kit is also a brass washer? where does this go? The service manual is not real user friendly. I can not find where this piece goes.

3. Owners Manual states: 9.5 Quarts. When i drained oil pan i know 9.5 quarts did not come out. I use both drains to drain the oil. I proceeded to add new oil. Only took 8 quarts. What am i missing? Could 1.5 quarts be left in the sump? Where is the sump?