2006 Oil Change Instructions

Thanks, Dave
I was just about to do my first oil change and these pages came at just the right time! :thumbsup
I really appreciate it. :biggrin

Additional oil change info

Dave,

Nice work. I did my first oil change about 6 weeks ago. It's important to note several things:

1. If there is any residual oil laying in your underbody panels, then try to figure out where the oil originated from.

2. If it's oil from the transaxle (a heavy oil), most likely it's coming from the breather: http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828

I do not want this to become an advertisement, however, www.gtsaver.com is offering a 3-pack of magnetic oil drain plugs, which is perfect when it comes time to changing your oil. ALL OF MY CARS HAVE THESE! Don't you think that your car's worth it?

3. Since you have removed them, you may want to power wash the underbody panels, as they do accumulate a lot of crud.

4. Clean all of the fasteners that are used to support the underbody panels. USE A TORQUE WRENCH WHEN RE-INSTALLING THESE FASTENERS! I live in So. Cal. (So. Orange Co.) and I will loan you mine if needed! THIS IS IMPORTANT!!! I also own an ultrasonic cleaning machine, and you are welcome to use this free of charge.

5. Very soon,www.gtsaver.com will be selling the large wrench needed to loosen the oil cap when performing your oil change.

Pretend that your car is the most expensive aircraft ever built, and you are in charge of changing the oil, got it?

Please call me anytime if I can be of assistance, that's part of my job, okay?

Happy oil changing,

Jay, the world's happiest GT owner... (949) 412-8889 cell - anytime!!!!!!!!!!
www.gtsaver.com

P.S. For those of you that are having oil seepage from the transaxle, I am designing a simple extension piece for the breather that should minimize transaxle oil from leaching onto the transaxle. Another vendor has contacted me recently claiming to have thought of a solution to solving this problem first, so I must be very careful with making any claims as his solution may be far superior to mine.

Three things:

When you install the new filter it needs to pop into the cap. Otherwise you can spin the cap forever and it feels like it is going in, but it doesn't.

I haven't reinserted the screws to hold the aero yet. The short screws go across the front of the front plate, I think.

The middle three screws on the very back center of the deflecter simply hold a piece of plastic to the deflector. I don't think these need to be removed.

Silverbullitt said:

Three things:

When you install the new filter it needs to pop into the cap. Otherwise you can spin the cap forever and it feels like it is going in, but it doesn't.

I haven't reinserted the screws to hold the aero yet. The short screws go across the front of the front plate, I think.

The middle three screws on the very back center of the deflecter simply hold a piece of plastic to the deflector. I don't think these need to be removed.

Click to expand...

You are correct. Sliver screws go into the silver tank cover [middle of car] & longer screws go on the out-board sides of the car where the plastic attaches to the body. Plastic deflector pieces on the rear pan do not need to be removed. Hope this helps.

Spirit said:

You are correct. Sliver screws go into the silver tank cover [middle of car] & longer screws go on the out-board sides of the car where the plastic attaches to the body. Plastic deflector pieces on the rear pan do not need to be removed. Hope this helps.

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The filter popping into the cap cost almost an hour. I had to stop, clean up and get on the forum to see if I missed something in the forum. Then I pulled the old filter and compared it. Then I put the filter first into the motor, then I pressed it into the cap and it popped in about an inch. Not bad for a former mechanic that built a car in an earlier life.

Could you fax a copy of the oil change instruction? My dealer has never worked on a GT and am afraid of letting him experiment. Only GT in a 100 mile radius. Cannot find your instructions in your pics section either. My fax is 843.342.3326. Would be very helpful to me. Thanks in advance,

leon

leon said:

Could you fax a copy of the oil change instruction? ..... Cannot find your instructions in your pics section either.
leon

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Same problem. Please fax to 215.968-3488.

Thanks

leon said:

Could you fax a copy of the oil change instruction? My dealer has never worked on a GT and am afraid of letting him experiment. Only GT in a 100 mile radius. Cannot find your instructions in your pics section either. My fax is 843.342.3326. Would be very helpful to me. Thanks in advance,

leon

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Leon/ACRJoe, go to the "Photo Gallery" tab of this site and in the search bar on the far right in the phot gallery summary type in "oil" and look for the 2 pages posted by DBK. They are the instructions from the manual....

me too. thanks! 905-888-5943

MAD IN NC said:

Leon/ACRJoe, go to the "Photo Gallery" tab of this site and in the search bar on the far right in the phot gallery summary type in "oil" and look for the 2 pages posted by DBK. They are the instructions from the manual....

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Got it, Thanks! Also Centerpunch is correct. I will purchase a factory service manual.

Didn't I see someone selling a CD of the manual? I searched and could not fine the thread. Seems like a great deal, I am having trouble with ebay, locked out of my account and can't figure out why.... nutso.

Bony - just PM'd ya.


Got to keep your Credit Cards away from Bouncy.... Sounds like she had a great time last night with them!

bony

I have both the 05 and 06 GT Tech Manual CDs. I have a 06 GT and got the 05 CD, as the 06 CD wasn't aviable at the time I got my 06 GT. I will sell my 05 CD for $170.00 SHIPED.

AMB

What wrench to use?

I was planning on changing my oil tomorrow.

I see that the cannister cap can take either a hex socket or a filter wrench.

For you guys that have done a change, is one or the other better (socket versus filter wrench).

Does anyone know the exact sizes for the socket or filter wrench? I though I had a socket to fit, but don't so I need to pick one up (hopefully only a six point).

Tips

OK, did the change myself (with Blue Moose help) today and have a few tips.

Filter wrench is 36mm. Only place we found one was at Sears (no Ace or Home Depot, but now saw one at Checker). Six point would be better, Sears and Checker had 12 point (worked OK).

Three drain plugs are 13mm.

All plugs and the filter cap torque to 18 pounds.

Torex is a 27. Four of the screws on the forward pan are different, so keep them seperate. Depending on how the car is lifted, you will probably need a short driver also to get at some of the spots (I use a 1/4 drive with a 1/4 socket to put a short torex in - also needed for loosening some of the tighter ones) as well as the screw driver type to make it easy.

Also had to take out three first three screws on the bright pan (tab of the second belly pan goes underneath the bright one and the three front screws go through) and also loosen the next two rows. There are more than the 19 screws that the instructions say that need to come out (I am thinking about 25) on the second pan, and the 21 on the first pan.

All in all, not a hard job. Spent more time rounding up tools than doing the work.

When you loosen the lid for the filter cannister, pick it up SLOWLY. The instructons say it will drain back into the system, but I still managed to dump some out onto the car. Definitely put towels / pan below the filter to catch any escaping oil.

When the filter is out, there is some remaining oil in the housing. Good to have something to use to suck it out with (I had a great tool - left over nose sucker for a baby).

Putting the filter on the spindel on the cap - though I had it on all the way. Could not screw it in. Took it back off, pressed some more, then there was the snap that someone mentioned and the filter was in place.

Checker sells a wonderful plastic basin for catching oil. It is short and wide. Fit perfectly under the car between the the body and the lift. Like it was made for the GT (they come in green and black with a pour spout to dump the oil).

At least now I can be the hack working on the car rather than some hack I don't know. :wink

AZGT,

Thanks for sharing. Changing the oil in my GT is a "must dance" when I'm home on leave.

Any special concerns when using a drive on lift?

Best Regards,
Waldo

No concerns for the drive on for me. Have the Bendpak HD-9. Ramps are fine as is, etc.

With the drive on you will need the short items / handles for the Torex screws that are toward the outer edges (which puts them over the ramps). Other than that, no issues.

Hurry back - you're missing the "dry heat".

AZGT said:

No concerns for the drive on for me. Have the Bendpak HD-9. Ramps are fine as is, etc.

With the drive on you will need the short items / handles for the Torex screws that are toward the outer edges (which puts them over the ramps). Other than that, no issues.

Hurry back - you're missing the "dry heat".

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I just got my HD9 last week, but I haven't used it yet was off on a trip. Also got dual rj-45 rolling jacks too. That will make lifting the GT off the ramp easy, so getting to the bolts should be no problem.

AZGT said:

No concerns for the drive on for me. Have the Bendpak HD-9. Ramps are fine as is, etc.

With the drive on you will need the short items / handles for the Torex screws that are toward the outer edges (which puts them over the ramps). Other than that, no issues.

Hurry back - you're missing the "dry heat".

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I'll be home for the last two weeks in August. I have no doubts there will be plenty of "dry heat" left.

Best Regards,
Waldo